The Philadelphia Inquirer, April 21, 1999



When it comes to eggs and salmonella, better safe than sorry

With care and an instant-read thermometer, favorite recipes needn't be abandoned.

By Alicia E. Tessling
CHICAGE TRIBUNE

Cooks still want to know how to make favorite recipes safe when they call for raw eggs. So it's time to revisit the process of tempering eggs.

The inside of the egg had once been considered almost sterile, but in recent years, a bacterial organism, salmonella, has been found inside some eggs.

How the contamination occurs is still unclear, according to the American Egg Board, based in Park Ridge, Ill.

Egg Board studies have shown that a very small number of eggs - about 1 of every 20,000 - contain the bacteria. However, it pays to play it safe.

Always start with fresh eggs whose shells are not cracked. (Eggs have a shelf life of about one month but are at their best during the first week.)

Store eggs in the carton they were purchased in to prevent odor absorption from other foods, advises the Egg Board.

Egg whites and yolks must be heated to 160 degrees to be salmonella-free, says Elisa Maloberti, consumer information coordinator for the Egg Board. Maloberti suggests these techniques for both egg whites and yolks.

An instant-read or candy thermometer will be needed to check temperatures.

The following steps would work in recipes such as buttercream frosting, meringue topping, mousse and custard.

To prepare whites, combine the whites with the sugar called for in the recipe in top of a double boiler. A minimum of 2 tablespoons sugar per egg white is required; if the recipe does not meet this minimum requirement, increase sugar accordingly. (Without the sugar, the whites will coagulate too rapidly and produce an unsatisfactory dish.)

Cook the egg white-sugar mixture over low heat, beating constantly with a hand-held electric mixer or whisk, until soft peaks form and the temperature reaches 160 degrees, about 20 minutes.

To prepare yolks, combine the yolks with the liquid called for in the recipe (at least 2 tablespoons of liquid per yolk) in top of a double boiler or in a heavy-bottomed saucepan.

If the recipe doesn't include this minimum amount of liquid, add water accordingly. (The yolk will scramble if less liquid is used.)

Cook over low heat, beating constantly with a hand-held electric mixer or whisk, until the temperature reaches 160 degrees, about 15 to 20 minutes. Then cool immediately in ice bath or in freezer.

 

This recipe originally used raw eggs. Here is a modified versionthat cooks the eggs

.

 

Tiramisu

3 large eggs, separated

6 tablespoons water

8 ounces mascarpone cheese

1 large egg white

cup sugar

teaspoon salt

14 ladyfingers

1 cup strong rich coffee, cooled

1 tablespoon Cognac

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

 Combine egg yolks and water in heavy saucepan. Cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until mixture reaches 160 degrees, about 15 minutes. Cool quickly in cold water bath or in freezer. Stir mascarpone into yolks.

 Combine 4 egg whites, sugar and salt in top of double boiler.

Cook over very low heat, beating with hand-held mixer on medium speed or with whisk until whites hold soft peaks and temperature reaches 160 degrees, about 20 minutes. Stir of whites into egg yolk mixture. Fold in remaining whites.

 To assemble, arrange ladyfingers in single layer on piece of heavy-duty foil; slightly turn up foil edges to make a tray. (You also can do this on a large platter.) Combine coffee and Cognac; drizzle evenly over ladyfingers.

 Arrange half of ladyfingers in single layer in glass or souffle dish about 6 inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches deep. Fill in any spaces with parts of ladyfingers. Cover ladyfinger layer with half of mascarpone mixture.

 Top with remaining ladyfingers and remaining mascarpone mixture. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days. Sprinkle cocoa through fine sieve over surface. Serve chilled. Makes six servings.

Nutritional data per serving: Calories, 370; protein, 10 grams; carbohydrates, 34 grams; fat, 23 grams; cholesterol, 250 milligrams; sodium, 150 milligrams.

© 1998 Philadelphia Newspapers Inc.