glossary
This is short haphazard collection of food terms that merit some comment.
- amarula
- Amarula is a South African cream liqueur we discovered by chance as a PA
LCB special buy, and used to flavor our standard
gelato recipe. This is a terrific product made from the Marula fruit
growing on the "Elephant tree" on the plains of South Africa with the flavor
of caramel and hints of chocolate and vanilla and its own
website that reports its socially
conscious year-round help for the people who harvest the fruit once a year.
- Anjar
- Anjar is a small Armenian village on the south eastern edge of the Becca
Valley in Lebanon on the road to Damascus where the famous Musa Dagh
resistance Armenians transferred from their homeland in Turkey in 1937. Left
by the Sarkahians in 1976 because of the crazy Lebanese civil war, landing
Ani in bob's vicinity somewhat later in 1985, and bringing
Armenian-Middle-Eastern cooking into bob's food life.
- arak
- arak (=
arack = arrack = arraki) is an anise-flavored liqueur which is the
national
drink of Lebanon, similar to pastis (the most different of this group) in the south of France, sambuca in
Italy, ouzo in Greece, anisado in Spain, raki in Turkey. This is the favorite
pre-dinner shot at the in-laws. It remains clear until you add some water
(traditional way of serving, with optional ice) which turns it milky
colored.
- bulgur
- essentially cracked wheat (bulgur = tzavar in armenian,
also spelled as bulgar, bulghur, burghul) but purists
distinguish them,
bulgur is a pretty nutritious cooked wheat which is dried and
ground into four sizes (1: fine, 2: medium, 3: big, 4 or half-cut: bigger,
but sometimes just fine, medium and coarse are available) and which has been
used for thousands of years (?, well, at least a pretty long time) as a staple
in the Eastern Mediterranean. The fine cut is familiar as the
grain in the well-known Lebanese salad tabouleh (although sometimes medium is
recommended), also used in the Armenian raw
meat dish chi-kufta and in kibbeh. The big(gest)
bulgur is used like rice in pilaf dishes, like bob's favorites lentil bulgur pilaf
and bulgur pilaf with chick
peas. Usually available in
Middle Eastern or Armenian specialty food stores.
- chocolate chips
- [see Carlo's choice of chocolate chip cheesecake]
- cream
- in America we have many variations according to the amount of butterFAT: half and
half (10.5%), light (18%), whipping (30%), heavy or heavy whipping (36%), double
(48%), all of which must be refrigerated. In Italy they have "panna da cucinare"
(cooking cream) in little one portion packages that do not have to be refrigerated and are
just right for what you need to add to a pasta sauce for a thickened cream. Unfortunately
these only last a few months, so when we import them in our luggage, they often sit in the
kitchen cabinet waiting for the right occasion and missing it.
- dulce de leche
- a South
American caramelized
sweetened
condensed milk product of Argentinean origin rivaling
Nutella for worldwide consumption. Makes a nice
cheesecake flavor. Spreadable
on other stuff, but also directly ingestible by spoon if desperate. Lately a
dark chocolate version has appeared from
La Salamandra, yummy,
competitive with chocolate hazelnut spreads [1,
2].
- Frangelico
hazelnut liqueur
- this waltzed into dr bob's life with the pumpkin cheesecake recipe in the early days
when an 18 buck bottle seemed expensive on a young assistant professor's salary, but
became an integral part of the cooking team alcohol stash with stunning arrival of the hazelnut cheesecake. Made in Italy where the hazelnut (nocciole)
is the number one nut, supposedly created by some seventeenth-century Italian monk-hermit
named Fra Angelico, sold in a
bottle in the shape of a monk's robe produced by Barbero
1891 S.P.A in Canale, Italy since only 1978.
- farro
- an ancient Mediterranean grain similar to barley and nearly identical to
spelt which is super nutritious. Can replace rice in rice salad (insalata di
riso), as in farro salad, or is
risotto, like mushroom
farrotto, or the wheat in whole grain pasta.
- garlic press
- we love garlic, so we have tried many different garlic presses. The final two best
presses in our possession stack up differently. The more expensive Kuhn Rikon Epicurean press is
very pretty, stainless steel, with a flip out grill for easy cleaning, but still you have
to brush the grill persistently, while the Pampered
Chef press
at about half the price (still not cheap) has a separate plastic reverse grill that you
press into the holed grill to push out the garlic remains, and that works rather well, but
you have to find somebody in their network to buy it from. We always dump in the garlic
remains to whatever recipe we are doing. No need to waste the stuff just because it is in
a different form than what makes it through. Garlic peelers are a different story. There
is the teeth press version (doesn't work very well) and the plastic tube version (tedious
to remove the garlic skins). We just press them with our hands/knife and cut and peel with
a knife.
- graham cracker
crumbs
- an unnecessary term for americans, but in Italy these do not exist, even in whole
cracker form. The few occasions bob has to produce cheesecake in Italy, he looks for Mulino Bianco Grancereale or Barilla I
Mugnai or Pavesi Digestivi (which are all made by the Barilla group) or Saiwa Cruscoro cookies and
crumbs them up easily to make "briciole di biscotti fatti con farina integrale
e malto", and since whole or recipe-ready hazelnuts are not usually available
on short notice to add a hazelnut (nocciole) crumb component as we like to do in the USA,
some Saiwa Lingue di Gatto oppure Parmalat Nussli can be mixed in as in our limoncello cheesecake, Italian version. [see also cheesecake di bob, versione italiana]
Created in the early 19th century by an eccentric American Presbyterian minister Sylvester
Graham, an early vegetarian propagandizer, the most well known brand these days is Nabisco Honey Maid (since
1925) which neglects to credit Sylvester. More recently sold in crumb form for the very
popular cheesecake market.
- guavaberry
liqueur
- the secret (?) ingredient for our best cheesecake [see guavaberry-lingonberry
cheesecake notes] discovered on our pre-honeymoon trip to Saint Martin
in 1990.
- Isgouhi
- dr bob's mother-in-law, whose name saved ms_ani from getting named after
her grandmother Isgouhi on her dad's side. from Aleppo, Syria, an ancient
food mecca. terrific Armenian-Middle-Eastern cook.
- labne
- well-drained yogurt, a healthy alternative to cream cheese in some recipes
which goes by many names [yogurt
cheese = chaka = labneh = lebna = labne = labanah], but which is typical
of Middle Eastern and Armenian cuisine.
-
limoncello
- lemon liqueur made in Southern Italy, most famously on the
Amalfi coast and Capri,
from lemon rinds, sugar and alcohol. dr bob was a pioneer in using it for
flavoring of cheesecake and
gelato.
- lingonberry
- the not so secret ingredient for our best cheesecake [see guavaberry-lingonberry
cheesecake notes] sold in syrup, drink and preserves formats at
IKEA USA which all began just a few miles away from
the dr bob enterprises home office in the northwestern philly 'burbs in the
late 1980s. Accompanying their (cheap!) Swedish meatball platters on the side
like applesauce with ham or cranberry sauce with turkey in American cuisine.
In fact googling "lingonberry"
immediately yields the fact that it is a "dry
ground cranberry" or "mountain
cranberry". Interesting.
- mahlab and mazdaq
- These are the secret ingredients for chorak (both available in
middle eastern food stores). Mahlab is a powder apparently extracted from the inner pit of
sour black cherries according to Linda Chirinian of Secrets
of Cooking Persian/Armenian/Lebanese. Mazdaq is a special flavor gum
marketed in the middle east by a subsidiary [Adams] of the multinational [Warner-Lambert]
which employs one of bob's brothers. Small world. Maybe this is mastic gum (ristacia lentiscus), the
mother of all gums? Needs more research... [For centuries the ancient Greeks chewed mastic
gum (or mastiche pronounced "mas-tee-ka"). This is the resin obtained from the
bark of the mastic tree, a shrub-like tree found mainly in Greece and Turkey. Grecian
women especially favored chewing mastic gum to clean their teeth and sweeten their breath.
Available on-line with mahlab (mahlepi?) from Mediterranean Foods or Sultans Delight or ....]
- Middle Eastern red pepper
- a sweet red pepper powder with a touch of hot red pepper added,
alias Turkish pepper, sometimes called Aintab pepper after the formerly Armenian city
Aintab, now Gaziantep, Turkey, as an
article by famous
cookbook writer Paula Wolfert describes at her website (adapted from a Saveur magazine article) turned up by a search on the
keywords "Aintab pepper". Two Armenian cookbook acquisitions from Alice Antreassian indicate that this can be reasonably
substituted by 3 parts paprika to 1 part cayenne red pepper. [see lentil
bulgur pilaf]
- parchment paper
- after decades of making cheesecake, bob finally figures out that putting parchment paper
on the inverted bottom makes it a lot easier to remove the
crust and cut slices, or even leave the cheesecake elsewhere without having to later
retrieve the pan. parchment paper is apparently a close relative of waxed paper, which
sealed in bob's peanut butter and jelly and ham and individually wrapped
American cheese
slice on white bread sandwiches in his youth (school lunches, working with dad). there were no individually sized
sandwich zip-lock bags in those days, and even plastic wrap seemed to be special. how
things change.
- parmigiano
- parmigiano-Reggiano cheese from
the Parma region of Italy,
also known in English speaking countries as Parmesan (where many unsuspecting consumers
believe that it always comes pre-grated with Romano cheese in green tubelike containers),
[we always increase the amount when listed and often add when not].
- Plantaforce
veggie broth concentrate
- "A vegetable concentrate which may be used to prepare stock or a delicious
vegetable broth. It may be used as a seasoning for soups, stews, gravies and sauces and is
especially delicious when mixed with rice or noodles. Plantaforce contains vegetable
protein, peanut oil, sea salt, cultured yeast extract, tomato pulp, green pepper pulp,
water cress, parsley, basil, thyme, celery, leeks, onions, chives, marjoram, rosemary and
kelp. It is also available in a low sodium version, without sea salt." (from the
UK site). Produced by a Swiss company
founded by A. Vogel (the USA site doesn't mention Plantaforce). This is our
preferred no-MSG veggie broth source, but now we have to special order it from our
local Healthfood store.
- recipe ready hazelnuts
- a convenient product from Diamond Walnut of California, although Oregon is the big
hazelnut state. [see hazelnut cheesecake notes]
- sark salad dressing
- we never buy salad dressing. for two we start with some extra virgin olive
oil in a small bowl with some lemon juice (either freshly squeezed or from a
bottle in the fridge), press in half a clove of garlic, grate in some black
pepper, add in some Middle Eastern red pepper, a touch of salt, and use our
wooden pestle to infuse the oil mixture with the garlic, then scrape it over
our mix of chopped tomato, half an avocado chopped, some Persian cucumber
chopped, and a few leaves of romaine lettuce.
- salsa tartufata
- truffle and olive sauce, tasty yet much cheaper than pure truffle sauce.
[see fettuccine al tartufo and salsa
tartufata on the road]
a close relative is crema tartufata, made with white truffles with similar use.
[see lightening up
(the tartufo sauce)]
- sour cream
- another ingredient not found in Italy, but for cheesecake toppings we substitute a
mixture of Fiorello (latticino cremoso) and sometimes a mild flavored (but delicious)
yogurt or at other times mascarpone.
[see cheesecake di bob, versione italiana and
limoncello cheesecake]
in cheesecake batters can be substituted by lowfat or nonfat plain yogurt.
- third person self-referencing
- this is what you call it when a person speaks of him or herself in the third person
instead of the first, as bob does in this evolving food diary. First made popular by another Bob in the presidential election that gave us Bill
Clinton, although bob had already had a long history of doing this by then. The other Bob
later ended up as a spokesperson for Viagra. History can be cruel to losers.
- vital wheat gluten
- Gluten is the natural protein found in wheat. This is a miracle ingredient for upgrading the
nutritional content of baked
goods by flour substitution. When using whole wheat flour in place of white
flour in baking, things don't rise as well, apparently because it has less gluten, so adding some back in can help. King Arthur gave us this hint and sold us the
"vital wheat gluten" on-line and we've been adding a heaping tablespoon to our baked goods when we use whole wheat flour
(per cup or so). It seems to work. We've been several times to the
King Arthur store in
Norwich, VT where a dr bob brother lives. Don't miss it if you are nearby. [Arrowhead
Mills][Bob's Red Mill]
- V-slicer
- This is a cheap
plastic hand-held version of the expensive stainless steel leg supported
vegetable slicer mandoline.
America's Test Kitchen did a comparison test and found the cheap V-slicers
were very good and the order of magnitude difference in price for the fancy
models did not seem warranted. dr bob bought his cheap V-slicer from a street
vendor in Munich decades ago, and it is still just as useful now as then.